Sea River Restaurant

Well done, regional seafood, technically superb, and plated artistically — a rarity for restaurants off the beaten path. This place could be in midtown New York City.
Apps and entrees are on the small side and are served on square plates. I started with chilled sliced lobster claws over a bed of arugula and a lemon-​herb sauce. I gave it a «9». Next came four grilled shrimp with some kind of yumsters ceviche over eggplant discs; tomatoes and calamari the ceviche base. Cheesy crab-​filled risotto came next; it was perfect. The main entrée was sea bass with julienned carrots and onions, with a side of scalloped potatoes. It came with a light rosemary-​ish butter sauce. Two deserts followed: a scoop of lemon sorbet with chopped strawberries, and a semifreddo filled with bits of minced almonds, Toblerone, and home made caramelized sugar pieces. The semifreddo seemed to be vanilla ice cream and whipped cream blended together: the whole shebang was drowned in hot chocolate. Niiiiice!
My tab was 89 euro NOT counting four glasses of wine. Yikes. So stop by the bank on the way over or sit near an emergency exit.
Actually called Ristorante Michele Sea River; I call it a four and one-​half star meal experience. Everything was technically perfect but not magical and I wanted to be blown off my heels. The place had a wedding reception hall feel to it: sixteen tables in what… 5,000 square feet? Our table seated 12 comfortably. A lounge area near a grand piano in the front had three big couches and seven couch chairs. A tennis center was behind the building and a guest told me you had to be a member of the club to get in. I didn’t believe him, but call ahead anyway to make sure. And speak Italian.