Arkupe

During a two-​week visit to Gernika in an apartment with no coffee maker, I crawled in here every morning to wake up with the most excellent café con leche you could hope for. Jesus, the owner, is an angel who knew Kid’s name by her second visit, and from then on would shout out to her every morning as she came in and would get her a hot chocolate and a slice of tortilla without even needing to ask. It’s that kind of place. In a town filled with bars, this one stands out.