Kocanda

Hidden among pre-​fab housing blocks on the edge of the Ústí nad Labem-​Všebořice light industrial estate, this restaurant lived up to the recommendations we had been given. I would have awarded it 5 stars if smoking had been banned (As in many Czech restaurants there is a relatively small non-​smoking area, usually in the not-​so-​popular part of the restaurant, and not screened off so that some tobacco inhalation is inevitable). First impressions were of a modern open clean design — and contented guests. Later almost all tables (except in the non-​smoking area) were full — on a Tuesday night. There is a daily-​changing lunch menu. The service was extremely friendly. We started with a bttle of Bohemian Sekt (birthday), poperly cooled and an ice bucket was provided. There is a variety of starters — we took the first-​class home-​made potato crisps (deep fried but with no excess fat) accompanied by garlc and cheese dips. Very tasty!
This was followed by ‘Pupek’, beef with pan-​fried jacket potatoes, rosy medium rare and well hung, with either a port wine or green pepper sauce. Our host had spare ribs — we all sampled them — a dream — with freshly grated horseradish and jus from the ribs as gravy. Although we were sated, I had to try the pancakes/​palatcinky with almonds. The were light and toothsomely nutty. The orange-​caramel flavour did not come across however and the marscapone had the consistency of panna cotta. A little disappointing. We will definitely go again and try other dishes from the small but interesting menu. Only open wines are available, but my wife had a Müller.Thurgau (not on the card) and it was pleasantlv light and dry.