Namak Mandi

In Pakistan, that feast of 190 million minds on how to cook the best karahi and how to beat India at cricket, the only thing spreading around the country faster than the militant «Islamic» theology of the Deobandi schools of the north west, is the food that they eat!
This is the so called «Namkeen cuisine» (trans. salty) of the North Western regions of Pakistan, in and around the historical city of Peshawar. This particular flavour — or, perhaps, an approach to cooking — has been rapidly growing in popularity around the country, so much so that even the restaurants offering «Western» dishes, have had to modify their menus to accommodate the demands of the public.
Now what does this have to do with London and with Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver? Well, nothing on the surface of things; what’s another «curry house» in Tooting, that hub of South Asian food?
First, the British curry (e.g. tikka masala, vindaloo, balti, butter chicken) is legitimately good food, and yet so far removed from the real food of South Asia.
Second, Tooting has some great British curry restaurants, but that’s not why you would go there. Among them are a few excellent and authentic eateries with trying.
Thirdly — and finally — Namak Mandi stands out as the only restaurant offering that authentic taste of the Northwest of Pakistan in addition to the atmosphere and ambience.
So, you should go, and when you do, call ahead to reserve a place — upstairs — so you can sit on the carpets and cushions like we do in Northwest Pakistan. (The place is full in the later evenings and on special South Asian and Muslim holidays such as Eids.)
When there, drink as much green tea as you can; get started with it, drink it during the meal, and after it. (It’s on the house).
Then order the Qabuli Pulao — that scrumptious national dish of Afghanistan, now indelibly a part of Namkeen cuisine after millions of Afghan refugees have lived in the region over the past forty years. It comes with a heavenly hunk of slow cooked lamb inside.
Then order a Namkeen Karahi — the signature dish of the whole cuisine — whether lamb or chicken.
Then order a chapli kebab (sandal kebab) to try the local take on a hamburger patty.
The chopan kebab (shepherd’s kebab) is as close as you’ll get to authentic Afghan lamb kebab in London.
Of course order naan, as it is the best and biggest naan around for a long way, and eat using your hands and naan, using the spoon to help if you need it.
The vegetarian dishes are excellent too, especially the «tarka daal»
This has become my favourite restaurant that reminds me of home in south Asia. Now it is not the typical British curry house, but an excellent cultural experience.
Most of the staff speak Pashto, so here are the key phrases to impress them and show your appreciation:
Hello: salaam alekum
I trust you are well: bakhair hosay, zhwinday hosay!
Excellent!: der-​kha
Thank you: der-​mañana
Good bye: khudai pamaan