Tantallon Castle

Day 6 was populated almost entirely by Tantallon castle, one of the strangest fortifications in all of Scotland. Mark my words now, at some point in my writing – my fiction writing – I will have a castle like Tantallon featured. Not any shape you’re accustomed with castles, Tantallon is comprised of single great wall acting as a defensive structure protecting the land behind it. It’s what’s called a promontory fort because, well, it guards a promontory – that is, an outcropping of land from a cliff wall. This is different from places like Stirling or Edinburgh which simply occupy a crag. What need is there to erect a wall fringing a cliff looking out over the sea? There aren’t many of these in the world, making Tantallon a unique artifact. It can also be called a curtain wall castle. Where a curtain wall usually surrounds a castle, here the curtain wall IS the castle. Just make a huge wall a dozen feet thick and construct the rooms within it. The great hall was set aside, in the only wall not facing the countryside. Received guests wouldn’t enter through the gate and waltz straight to the lord; they’d have to take a left and then climb some stairs, followed by right. The poor condition of Tantallon comes from the fact that it’s been involved in various wars over the course of six hundred years.
As for the specifics of the day, my girlfriend and her family (not awkward) took us out of Edinburgh to Tantallon castle on the only day the clouds decided to spit… but only spit. While at Tantallon, water didn’t fall with enough volume to even warrant opening my umbrella. It was also November. Add both of those facts together and my girlfriend and I ended up being the only ones at the castle. And I do mean only, we couldn’t even find an employee, only a note claiming the solitary custodian was working the grounds. We never found him or her, and we hung around for a while, exploring every room. Tantallon was rumored to be haunted… maybe the ghost was the employee?
So wait, you’re thinking, you and your girlfriend were alone in a castle… all by yourself? Could that have been any more romantic?
Well, yes, we could and should have packed a lunch. If her parents weren’t waiting in a car, we should have sat on a bench looking out to Bass Rock for an hour while sharing a glass of red wine. This is a picnic waiting to happen. Alas, after an hour, we left, but not before taking numerous photos of this desolate and abandoned fortress. And no… there was no ghost.

The Red Douglas Stronghold near North Berwick!
In my lifetime I have seen many ruins of past strongholds, but this one is the most exciting so far.
Nobody lives there anymore. The walls tell a story of besiege, feasts, battle and royal connection. The Red Douglas were involved in intrigue and paid their price, but the castle itself was such an amazing and powerful stronghold that neither Cromwell’s army nor the Scottish King himself was able to conquer the fortress in its prime time.
Unfortunately the weather had it’s toll on the exterior and the castle wasted away, leaving behind mystic and powerful ruins to admire.
You stand on top of a tower, look out onto the sea and at the same time admire the wonderful views of the coastline and listen to the songs of the seagulls.
Hear my song and cry for freedom, imprisoned only by the walls surrounding my existence… but hear, freedom is to come and it’s never too late to hope…
It’s a Historic Scotland property and therefore free entry for members, otherwise £5.

Tantallon is one of those places that just stays in your mind. I’ve lost count how many times I have visited and walked those ramparts. The location just blows your mind. If you don’t believe me, just walk up to the top and just stop. Stop and just take everything in. In a few seconds, things will start to happen. The wind will be blowing through your hair and it’s sound will start to overtake any chatter of tourists around you. Just below you, you will start to see dozens of birds swooping and spinning through the air as they visit their roosts in the walls of Tantallon. In the distance, the sky will be white around the Bass Rock, as thousands of birds gather to nest and feed. You’ll see activity out on the sea in front of you. The greenness of the grass will astound you. The history captured in a collapsing remains of a medieval castle will become more apparent. Tantallon will take root in your soul.
Last night we visited, again. This time it was part of the Lammermuir Music Festival, or ‘Beautiful Music in Beautiful Places’. This was the showpiece, with giant spotlights flashing through a clear star-​filled night, animation playing against the walls of Tantallon, music and poetry filling the air. It got to me, it really did. Anyone who visits Edinburgh, or the East Coast, should count this as one of the places to see — a little out of the way, granted, but what you get in return will reward the journey taken.

Of the many attractions in and around North Berwick, Tantallon Castle has got to be one of the best.
Sitting opposite the famous Bass rock and right by the sea cliff, Tantallon is a romantic ruin situated on a beautiful location. Tantallon is a great fortress castle. It was built in the middle of the 14^th century by the Douglas Earls of Angus, and it saw particular action under the early Stuart reign. It is also famous for being lay siege to by Oliver Cromwell.
Tantallon is easy enough to get to. With regular bus and trains from Edinburgh to North Berwick then a quick bus outside of town to the castle, or alternatively a wee walk. The castle is now a ruin but it is still well wort the visit. It’s collapsed walls are still intact enough to show what a strong and daunting fortress it once was. It is sometimes called «Scotland’s last great medieval castle».
When I first visited the bus to North Berwick was late and then I ended up walking from the station to the castle. In the end by the time I got there it had just closed. However the staff still let me in to have a quick look around. Needless to say they are all very friendly!
A final word of warning! Tantallon is the site of two famous ghost spot tings, one in the 70s and one a few years ago supposedly capturing a figure with a ruff collar. Google it if you don’t believe me!