L’impronta

I had the opportunity to attend a presentation with Drew Nieporent the restauranteur who founded Montrachet, Tribeca Grill, Nobu, et al. Nieporent has a very interesting story, but my big take away was his contention that front of the house service at restaurants has taken a back seat to celebrity chefs. This focus on the kitchen over the dining room has, in his opinion, diminished the overall experience.
While I apprecaite and am in awe of the culinary arts, I agree that the emphasis has shifted, and not always for the best. Long gone are the days when the Maître d’hôtel fussed over guests and made them feel special and created an environment where the food could enjoyed to it’s fullest. I have recurring dreams of Grant Achatz’s food, but can’t remember the last time a Maître d’ made my meal more enjoyable (well…maybe Tony at Opus in Toronto)
In many ways, Trattoria L’impronta has found that balance of cuisine and hospitality that Mr Nieporent and I long for.
When the cab dropped us off, blocks from the rows of restaurants of Puerto Banus, I must admit I was a bit hesitant. The residential location does not exude top notch dining, but once inside, we were warmly and genuinely greeted by Miguel, the Maître d’hôtel. After an expertly made Hendricks and Fever Tree at the tiny bar, we were seated in the comfortable and intimate dining room. From there, we were immersed in a pleasant restaurant experience that I’ll hold up as an example of balance between food and service. Don’t underestimate the effort and skill it takes to execute this. Like professional golfers, these guys are playing a differnt game than other establishments, and doing it expertly.
I could rave about the food as well, but won’t. It was all excellent, and I’m confident you won’t be disappointed with anything on the menu. Relax and trust this team, they’ll do the right thing and I’m quite sure you’ll have one of the best meals of your holiday here.
I would highly endorse this establishment and am looking forward to dining there again soon!