The Lodge Balham

The Lodge couldn’t have timed its arrival any better. Just as the nights are drawing in and you stopped mourning the end of summer, realising that candlelit dinners, mulled wine and open fires are what make winter so attractive. It was just cold and dark enough for the preview dinner the owners had arranged for a fun crowd of food writers, bloggers and friends — including the lovely gamekeeper who provided the venison.
The Lodge has brought a classy version of Alpine après-​ski to Balham and succeeds where novelty places like «Tiroler Hut» fail for me. While the latter is entirely based on dated stereotypes and gets away with serving second rate food, The Lodge is a proper restaurant which takes its food seriously. The interior is just the right mix of cosy wood panelling (rough slabs of pine with backlit mountain ranges) and pared down design features. The patio area with heaters and blankets is bound to become a hit for those stopping by for a mulled wine or two — very continental.
All suppliers are listed at the back of the menu which always adds a level of trust, and the German Riesling is a very good example of what you would be served in Germany (the «unplugged» reference on the label probably the naffest bit of the evening — wine so good, it doesn’t need amplifying …). Anyhow, you should always have red with cheese fondue! Or beer, and they have a lovely bespoke plop-​top bottle variety rather than bad lager served in Oktoberfest-​sized vessels.
OK, so the evening started with a selection of hot cocktails which were all delicious. Mulled cider and wine were served from thermos flasks, but everyone’s surprise favourite was the Baked Alaska Buttered Rum — the most delicious concoction reminiscent of a really good Carnival punch, served hot.
We were treated to a selection of starters which included smoked pumpkin soup, scallops, beetroot and goats curd canapes and miniature versions of the Lodge venison burger. My first ever taste of game — they have set the bar very high!
I love the fact that fondue is now an acceptable grown-​up food and I no longer need to be embarrassed to admit how much I love it. You just can’t beat the combination of melted cheese and sharing food with friends. The sides were beautifully presented and consisted of the most tender baby potatoes, deliciously dressed salad leaves and an amazing selection of cured meats.
Under normal circumstances you’d stop here but the feast wasn’t yet over … a selection of sweet temptations arrived on a custom-​made wooden frame. They turned out to be the most delicious toppings for a trio of ice creams. If the fondue hadn’t already turned us into children, then now all was lost … one of the best evenings ever!
An absolute winner and an obvious contender for Christmas parties — it’s bound to book out as soon as it opens properly this weekend, you’ve been warned!