177 Club

«177 club is a pop-​up restaurant focused on good quality seasonal food». So says their tagline on Facebook, (
) and chef Jon Bugge will sometimes tweet live from the kitchen as he and partner Alex Risdale produce four gorgeous courses of locally sourced, seasonal food. (
)
Conveniently located across the street from Brixton tube station, the directions already hint at the ambient setting — «On Ferndale Road, just before the railway bridge, you will see a pair of white wooden gates with 177 on the pillars. Ring the bell marked „Alex Risdale Catering“ and we’ll let you in.». A glamorous looking hostess with an exotic accent checked our names off a list, and took our donation of £40. We were then let through to the gravel courtyard in front of a series of railway arches, which have been converted into offices and indoor space. Outside, on this unseasonably warm night, there were chairs dotted around and candles lit on a table. We were given a glass of bubbly to ease into the evening, and hors d’oeuvres were passed around, (avocado yumminess in tiny wee tortilla «bowls») while trains zipped along the live track over the arches.
Half an hour later, we were invited inside to sit down, where there was no pre-​arranged placement, so you just grabbed a seat at one of the four tables. There were bottles of crisp white wine and a carafe of water on each table, and after we introduced ourselves to our new dining companions, we passed the wine around family style, filling up our glasses. Meanwhile, the glamorous hostess was now bringing out the first course of Tuscan autumn soup, along with one of the chef’s, Jon, who was also pulling double duty as a server. In my haste to dig in, I forgot to take a photo of the soup, but it was very pretty with big leaves of kale floating around in a clear broth and was delicious. Kale is a super food, and I’d eat more of it if it always tasted like this, rather than the bitter, chewy mess I’ve sampled in the past.
With great efficiency our bowls were quickly cleared to make way for the second course of home-​cured black treacle salmon, accompanied by a basket of flawless homemade soda bread. Jon recently trained at Ballymaloe Cookery School in Ireland, and I suppose soda bread is one of the staples you have to perfect! The salmon was sushi grade with a beautiful texture, and not too sweet.
On to the third and main course, Daube of Beef Provençal, with a compote of olives, onions and tomatoes. By this time bottles of red wine had magically appeared on the table –hearty malbecs. Again, this course was flawless, and I was grateful for the creamy mashed potatoes under the tender meat. I spied a vegetarian option on the neighboring table of a beautiful looking fig and goat cheese salad, and was told it was very good.
Desert was a rustic looking homemade blackberry and apple pie with whipped cream. Each table could barely make a dent in the hefty sized pies, and we were offered to take a piece home in plastic take out containers. Mine ended up going to a homeless man begging at the tube, who may well have barehanded it since I did not have a fork or spoon to offer. I hope he braved it, because even though I don’t have a sweet tooth, I have to admit it was scrumptious with a hint of tartness to it.
Coffee was served and more chatting and wine was had. Again, plates and spent glasses were cleared with speedy efficiency, so the wrap out could begin from the temporary digs of the pop-​up restaurant, reminiscent of the illegal supper clubs so popular in New York and elsewhere. The communal seating encourages hearty conversations with people you have just met, and might have nothing in common with, except for a love of good food.
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The next pop-​up is October 20^th 7:30pm to 11pm. Arrive at 7.30pm for a glass of Prosecco before enjoying the following:
Mildly spiced pumpkin and chickpea soup with chilli oil and crème fraîche.
Devon crab tart with baby leaves and shallot dressing.
Duck breast with roasted shallots, girolles, peas and pancetta,
or the vegetarian option is Aubergine Parmigiana.
Muscavado and hazelnut tart with yoghurt sorbet.
Coffee/​tea and petits fours.
A selection of wines has been chosen to compliment the food and is included.
If you have any dietary requirements let them know ahead of time.
To book please email
.